Lingerie fabrics compared: silk, lace, microfibre and more

Fabric is the part of a lingerie purchase that most people think about least and regret most. A bra that fits perfectly in the wrong fabric is uncomfortable by noon. This guide covers twelve fabrics that appear regularly in lingerie collections, with notes on how each behaves against skin, how it washes, and what it is actually good for.

Natural fibres: silk, cotton, and modal ¶

Silk charmeuse is the fabric most associated with luxury lingerie. It is smooth, temperature-regulating, and drapes well, which makes it useful for slips and camisoles. It is also the most demanding to care for: hand-wash in cool water, no wringing, dry flat. Silk loses strength when wet, which means rough handling during washing shortens its life significantly.

Cotton jersey is the opposite in almost every way. It is durable, washable at 40 degrees Celsius, and breathable in a way that synthetic fabrics are not. It does not drape as elegantly as silk, but for everyday underwear it is the most practical choice. Cotton-elastane blends add stretch while keeping most of the breathability.

Modal is a semi-synthetic fibre made from beech wood pulp. It is softer than cotton, has a slight sheen, and holds its shape well through repeated washing. Modal-elastane blends are common in everyday bralettes and briefs. The care note: modal-elastane blends should be washed at 30 degrees Celsius rather than 40, as the elastane degrades faster at higher temperatures.

Synthetics: microfibre, nylon tricot, and powernet ¶

Microfibre is a woven or knitted fabric made from very fine synthetic fibres, usually polyester or nylon. It is smooth, quick-drying, and gives a clean line under fitted clothing. It does not breathe as well as natural fibres, which makes it less comfortable in warm conditions or for extended wear.

Nylon tricot is a knitted fabric with a fine, consistent texture. It is used in the lining of many bras and in the body of some briefs. It is durable and holds its shape well, but like microfibre it traps heat. Powernet is a stretch mesh used in the side panels and back sections of structured bras. It provides firm support while allowing some airflow, and it recovers its shape well after stretching.

Lace and decorative fabrics ¶

Stretch lace is the most common decorative fabric in lingerie. It is made on a Raschel knitting machine and has stretch in at least one direction, usually horizontal. The stretch direction matters for fit: a lace with stretch only in the horizontal direction will not accommodate vertical movement the way a two-way stretch lace will.

Broderie anglaise is an embroidered cotton fabric with cut-out patterns. It appears mostly in spring and transitional collections. It does not stretch, which means it is used in styles where the fit comes from cut rather than fabric give. It presses well but requires a pressing cloth to avoid flattening the embroidery.

The full fabric reference on this site covers all twelve fabrics with wash temperature tables and notes on how each ages over time. It is updated when care label standards change.